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Sunday, January 30, 2005

In Virginia, see all the presidents' dens

Winter has roared in; not much fun for many seniors, but planning a long weekend with our "founding fathers" could be a balm for the post-blizzard blues.Since the homes of four of the first five presidents are clustered in Virginia, along with a lot of other history, a long weekend may be all you need.My own love affair with the Commonwealth of Virginia began a half century ago, when I first went with an Upsala College debating team. It was the farthest south that I had been, and I remember the rich redness of the soil, the softness of the air and the lilting Southern accents.It's still the first taste of the South for me, not the Deep South, just a softening around the edges of life, and it's not hard to see why so many service people, who travel the world, retire to Virginia.For years, my visits hugged the coast around Norfolk (having a son in the Navy was a factor). More recently, I've been pushing west, particularly to Charlottesville, a jumping-off point for visiting the homes of Thomas Jefferson, the third president, James Madison, the fourth president, and James Monroe, the fifth president. All are open year-round. Unfortunately, George Washington's Mount Vernon is more than a stone's throw away, but most of us have been there already.Discovering MadisonMadison's Montpelier is undergoing a $60-million renovation to restore it to the home James and Dolley Madison knew in the 1820s. While most renovations are designed to expand, this one reduces the house from 55 rooms to 22 rooms and removes 184 years of improvements. Montpelier is open for restoration tours, offering the opportunity to peer through layers of history and watch restorers at work.For a more detailed portrait of the lives of James and Dolley, you head for the Education Center to see "Treasures From the Madisons' Collections," and vignettes of Dolley's bedchamber and the 1820 dining room in which they entertained the Marquis de Lafayette. There's also a film, "Discover Madison."Though sometimes called the father of the Constitution, Madison never gets enough credit as chief architect of the American republic. He held the bickering Constitutional Convention delegates together, provided the only handwritten transcript of proceedings and assured a new-to-the-world Constitution and Bill of Rights guaranteeing liberties and the separation of church and state.Socially, however, he was rather a "stiff," an academic who preferred the company of his 4,000 books. Dolley, on the other hand, was friendly and much loved in Washington. She was the longest-running first lady - a term that was coined for her - serving 16 years as hostess for both her husband and the widowed Jefferson.If you go on a fine day, as we did, you'll want to explore the 2,700-acre property, originally purchased by Madison's grandfather, Ambrose Madison, in 1725. We visited the Madison family cemetery and the ongoing archaeological digs at Mount Pleasant, where the original house stood.Or catch a weekend tour of the 200-year-old Landmark Forest, the slave quarters and cemetery, the 1872 home of freedman George Gilmore and the Civil War encampment.There's also a tour April through October of the legacy of the duPonts, who owned Montpelier for 80 years. The last private owner, Marion duPont Scott, wife of cowboy actor Randolph Scott, built a steeplechase course, and for more than 50 years staged a Race Day. The tradition is still carried on every fall by the Montpelier Steeplechase & Equestrian Foundation, with the public invited. Admission to Montpelier is $10 for seniors. Visit's MonticelloThomas Jefferson's Monticello is a must visit, well- organized from the moment you are shuttled to the house. Jefferson's residence is a portrait of the man who delighted in architecture, nature and gadgets. We were especially intrigued by his inventions, such as an ingenious copy machine, a forerunner of modern copiers. Admission is $14. Visit